BREAK-IN PROCEDURES FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES

SUGGESTED PRECAUTIONS FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES

 This engine has been carefully remanufactured to precision standards, and will perform properly if certain steps are taken by the mechanic making the installation. Following is a list of causes for a remanufactured engine to fail early in service, and suggested procedures to prevent failure. When a properly remanufactured engine fails to give satisfactory service, it is usually due to: burning piston heads caused by detonation, pre-ignition or “lugging”; piston scuffing or seizing usually caused by overheating or excess fuel; bearing and crankshaft wear caused by under-lubrication, dirt or coolant seepage; excessive piston and cylinder wear caused by dirt, ineffective air filtering, coolant seepage, or excessively rich, air-fuel ratio. Failure to properly install the engine and transmission or failure to properly break in engine and valvetrain. 

The customer and the remanufacturer have a mutual interest in this engine. We both want it to perform and give long and satisfactory life.

We recommend these precautions:

1. Be sure to prime the oil pump, oil lines and fill the oil filters with oil using an auxiliary pump, operating the internal oil pump with a hand drill and oil pump tool, or an external pressure tank connected to the oil pressure gauge or sending unit fitting before starting the engine. It is desirable to fill the crankcase in this manner. If using an air pressure tank be sure it does not run out of oil and blow air through the lines.  Failure to properly lubricate your engine for any reason, including faulty oil pump(s), are not covered under warranty in any case. Failure to properly lubricate any part of your engine including the valvetrain and all parts of the engine will result in damage that will be your responsibility to repair and will render your warranty completely void for the full length of the warranty.

2. Proper air-fuel ratio is vital in today’s engines. Be sure the carburetor or fuel injection system has been remanufactured to manufacturer’s specifications. Manifold and cylinder head surfaces should be checked and in good condition (resurface if necessary). Be sure the cylinder heads and manifolds are torqued and retorqued in proper sequence if required. Air seepage can cause lean air-fuel ratio which causes detonation. Check fuel pump for proper pressure.  Failure to properly fuel your engine at any time will render your warranty completely void and any engine damage that occurs will be the buyers responsibility and not the responsibility of Big 3.

3. Ignition or diesel fuel injection system should be properly serviced or calibrated, and engine timing corrected. Proper valve lash or clearance is very important. Engine damage that occurs due to a failure to properly maintain your valve adjustment will be entirely the buyers responsibility and is not covered under warranty.

4. Be sure to use spark plugs of the correct heat range and gap as specified by the engine manufacturer. Check electronic sensors and sending units for proper operation. Vacuum lines must be properly routed and connected to the appropriate fittings to ensure operation of emission control devices and related engine controls. Damage due to spark plugs is not covered under your warranty.

5. Check the exhaust thermostat control (commonly called the heat riser) to be certain it is free and operating properly. Check the exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR valve) for proper operation. Clean the intake manifold to remove deposits from the various passages. A malfunctioning EGR valve can lead to a lean condition that can cause engine damage. It is your responsibility to install a new EGR valve on your engine and any damage resulting from a failure to be certain that it is operating properly will be your responsibility.

6. Rebuild or replace the radiator and hose lines to ensure they are free from deposits so that the cooling system can function properly. Restrictions can cause overheating. Thermostats should be checked or replaced with one of the correct temperature. Use the proper pressure cap as specified by the engine manufacturer, and make sure it is properly seated. Overheating your engine is considered misuse, is entirely avoidable in all cases, and will not be covered under your warranty.

7. Important - replace filter elements. Thoroughly check engine accessories which are to be reused. Clean them internally and externally before installing.

8. The coolant used should be compatible with aluminum engine components and blended to a mixture of no more than 60% antifreeze and 40% water.

9. Before releasing the engine for regular service, check the air-fuel ratio. Caution the driver against “lugging.” RECOMMENDED “BREAK-IN” PROCEDURES FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES Protect the investment you have in your engine.

Take the time to read and follow these recommendations.

CAUTION

1. Before starting the engine for the first time, be sure it has been properly prelubricated.

2. Never add cold water to the cooling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature.

3. Start engine and run at fast idle, a minimum of 1500-2500 RPM, and a maximum of 3000 RPM and check the oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though coolant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. Adjust tappets, if required, carburetor and ignition timing. If the coolant should “boil over,” stop engine and allow to cool. Then start again and proceed as above.  Do not let a new or remanufactured engine sit at low idle(Below 1500 RPM) for the first 30 min to 1 hour of operation. If you fail to follow this procedure you may not provide sufficient lubricant to the valvetrain and engine damage will occur. This type of damage is considered a failure to correctly install your engine. This type of misuse is not covered under warranty and will render the remainder of your warranty Void.

4. When required retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to engine manufacturer’s specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary.  Failure to properly adjust your tappets or retorque bolts resulting in tappet, cam, cylinder head, gasket or other damage will not be covered under your warranty. This type of misuse will render your warranty completely void.

5. Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 MPH in “drive” range or select the proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically accelerate to 50 MPH and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above.

NOTE: Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are “breaking-in” the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and ring assemblies. Do not lug the engine or apply loads other than the vehicle for which it was intended to provide mobility for. Towing, driving over 70mph, quick acceleration, racing, track use, or any other type of use either described or not described herein may void your warranty especially during the initial 500 mile break in time frame. Mileage must be recorded at beginning and end of break in by your certified shop or dealer who installed your engine and must be verified with accompanying invoice. Failure to provide these records will render your warranty void.

ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS Passenger Cars Drive normally but not at continuous high speeds or under heavy loads for the first 500 miles. Change oil and filters after 500 miles. Trucks Operate the vehicle with light loads up to 500 miles and avoid “lugging.” Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this period is advisable.

Change oil and filters after 500 miles of service.

Industrial Engines Follow the above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours.

Change oil and filters after approximately 20 hours of operation.

*As required by the engine or gasket manufacturer, after 1000 miles of service, retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Readjust tappets when required. We suggest this be done again after 5000 miles. We know that this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. Failure to follow these procedures can void your warranty on your engine or transmission assemblies.

NOTICE: Failure to have your engine or transmission assembly installed by a certified installer at a certified shop or dealer will render your warranty void for the entire length of said warranty. Only engines and transmissions installed by a certified installer bearing all compatible ASE certifications and all compatible dealer certifications for a given brand and model of vehicle will be covered under warranty. No labor warranty is implied or given on any of our products. Any and all warranty claims must be accompanied by verified invoices for installation and break in procedure at a certified shop or dealer and must also include a copy of the certifications of the direct installer(s) of your parts and must be verifiable and current at the time your installation is performed.

Synthetic Motor Oils

 The introduction of synthetic motor oils dates back to World War II and they are often described as the “oil of the future.” Synthetic oils are man made, manufactured in a laboratory rather than pumped out of the ground and refined. They offer a variety of advantages over natural oils from better fuel economy, stability over a wide range of temperatures and operating conditions and longevity. However, the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the “break-in” period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between moving components is not desirable for a “break-in” oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper “break-in” of piston and piston rings. AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service. Thereafter it is up to the vehicle owner to weight the cost of more expensive synthetic motor oils, manufacturer’s oil classification recommendations and drain intervals.

FA

SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL WILL CAUSE YOUR ENGINE TO CONSUME OIL IN ENGINES THAT ARE NOT DESIGNED TO WORK WITH SYNTHETIC OIL AND ANY NEW OR REMANUFACTURED OR REBUILT ENGINE FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST 5000 MILES.  FAILURE TO USE THE CORRECT OIL WILL NOT ALLOW YOUR PISTON RINGS TO SEAT AND IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, YOU WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY RELATED REPAIRS INVOLVED IN A FAILURE TO FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED ON THE WEB BY BIG 3. YOU MUST REFERENCE AERA INSTALLATION AND BREAK IN PROCEDURES AND FAILURE TO FOLLOW EVERY SINGLE STEP OF THE INSTRUCTIONS WILL DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE AND WILL NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. BIG 3 IS NOT LIABLE TO ANYONE IN ANY CAPACITY WHO FAILS TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OFFERED BY BIG 3 VERBALLY, IN WRITING, OR POSTED ON THIS SITE, BIG3ENGINES.COM

REQUIRED OIL ADDITIVES

PERFORMANCE, MODIFIED, PRE-2007, AND FLAT TAPPET ENGINES OF ANY KIND, REQUIRE ZINC DIALKYLDITHIOPHOSPHATE, OR ZDDP, DURING THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE AND A FAILURE TO KEEP ZDDP IN YOUR OIL WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY DUE TO MISUSE. ENGINES WITH CATALYTIC CONVERTERS CAN SWITCH TO MOLY-LUBE AT 5000(FIVE THOUSAND) MILES, LIQUI-MOLY BEING THE PREFERRED BRAND, Colloidal solid lubricant suspension based on molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) in mineral oil. THIS IS A CATALYTIC CONVERTER SAFE ADDITIVE FOR USE WITH PERFORMANCE ENGINES WITH LARGE CAMSHAFT.

ZINC ADDITIVES SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH POST 2007 ENGINES OR ENGINES THAT HAVE DIRECT ELECTRONIC VVT(DOES NOT APPLY TO MAGNETICALLY CONTROLLED VVT HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVES) AND ENGINES THAT HAVE A DISPLACEMENT ON DEMAND, MULTIDISPLACEMENT, OR ANY OTHER CYLINDER DEACTIVATION CONTROL DEVICE.

MORE BREAK IN PROCEDURE TIPS AND TRICKS TO ENSURE LONG LIFE OF YOUR ENGINE

Ensure all accessories (headers, alternator, power steering pump, etc.) are tight and check for any water /oil leaks. Even if your engine came complete, it’s best to check all major components such as Distributor, Spark Plugs, Wires, Carburetor etc as it could have been damaged or disturbed during shipping.

1. You will need to fill the engine with oil as they are shipped dry. Most engines use 5 quarts total, if unsure check with BIG 3 tech for assistance. When installing an oil filter, fill it ½ way with oil and lube the rubber gasket that surrounds the filter with oil, than tighten by hand. We recommend WIX or other premium brand oil filters. We recommend Joe Gibbs Racing Oil BR40 especially in flat tappet engines, if this is not available to you then a 10w40 to 20w50 with an engine break in additive (ZDDP, or ZINC camshaft additive) will do. BIG 3 also recommends running a zinc additive throughout the life of the engine FOR MOST TYPES OF ENGINES, BUT NOT CYLINDER DEACTIVATION ENGINES. It is best to prime the oil system with an engine priming tool or a Pre Luber even if the engine has been dyno tested.

2. We recommend that a new engine is first broken in with regular mineral type engine oil with zinc additive. Do not run synthetic oils until 5,000+ miles are put on the engine. If you fail to follow this procedure, the rings may never seat. If the engine was not originally designed for synthetic oil we do not recommend running a synthetic for the life of the motor with the exception of race or hotrod specific synthetics such as Joe Gibbs, Torco or Redline. Conventional Rotella 15w40 can also be used.

3. The distributor timing should be set to a baseline if your engine was dyno tested and came with a dyno report, but occasionally it is disturbed during shipment. If your engine was complete, but not dyno tested you will still need to verify timing. Non Dyno tested engines come set at approximately 34-36 degrees without Vacuum Advance hooked up (must have vacuum port plugged to verify). DO NOT ASSUME because it fired up, it is correct. If the engine does not fire immediately you may need to recheck the timing.

4. Set the ignition timing after engine starts. The starting point to set timing for most carbureted engines is 34 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) with the vacuum advance disconnected (must plug vacuum port) and running at 3,000 rpm. Some experimentation with timing is required for optimal results with locally available fuel, but it should be between 32-36 BTDC.

5. Even if your engine came with a carburetor, it may still need to be setup correctly for your application. The engine Dyno is only a simulation, tuning specs change once installed in a vehicle due to different elevations and vacuum accessories are hooked up. Please refer to the instruction manual to properly set the floats, idle speed, and air/fuel mixture screws for optimal performance. See BIG 3 Tips below.
6. Flat tappet hydraulic cams - Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM's, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes. Let the engine cool down completely and repeat process 2-3 more times. Do not idle the engine for any extended period at this time, this is critical to break in the camshaft. We have usually performed this step at BIG 3 if the Dyno Test and Tune or Run-In options were purchased. Our standard HD and HDE engines will require this break in procedure even if the unit was spin or dyno tested at the factory. These services are not available for all models. EFI units may only have chassis dyno service available. Changing the oil after the initial run in or at 50 miles is recommended to remove assembly material and lubricants from the motor.

8. Remember that the cooling system on a fresh engine swap will have a lot of trapped air, which will lead to wild temperature gauge readings and possible water pump cavitations (water pump not moving coolant due to trapped air). To help avoid trapped air in the cooling system, try to fill the cooling system up with a 50/50 mix of quality coolant and water a few hours before you plan on starting the engine. Leave the radiator cap off during this time. We also recommend removing one of the water crossover plugs in the intake while filling the cooling system. This will tend to help purge a fair amount of trapped air before you start the engine. Also helpful during break-in is to use a Lever-Vent type radiator cap on your radiator in so that you can manually purge trapped air while engine is running- (use extreme caution to avoid being burned by hot coolant). Your normal cap can then be re-installed after engine cools off. A coolant bleeder tool is highly recommended to remove trapped air from your cooling system. See BIG 3 Tips below.

9. The worst thing for a new engine is to let it sit there and idle. The engine needs to build up cylinder pressure in order to expand the piston rings and allow them to seat. Failure to properly break in the engine can cause the rings to not seat and produce blow by as well as poor performance. This applies to engines that were dyno tested as well. Drive the vehicle while varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 200 miles. Occasional half throttle runs from a rolling start (2,000 rpm or so) to 4,500 rpm will help seat the piston rings. Do not go above 5000 RPM during the entire break in period. After 150-200 miles, it is recommended to check the rockers/valve clearance to ensure adjusters are tight and valve lash is correct (do this again at 500 miles) as well as re-torqueing the head bolts and intake manifold bolts.

10. After the initial 200 miles run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 4500 RPM (observing local laws of course), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

11. Run a couple hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM, then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. Do not go above 5000 RPM during the first 5000 miles for extended engine life

12. After 500 miles are on the engine, change the oil, filter and check coolant level (top off if necessary).

13. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. It is best to avoid long periods of idling during this period.

14. Change the oil and oil filter again at 1,000 miles. Continue using mineral oils and zinc additive, until about 5,000 miles. At that point, you should be able to run a quality synthetic oil if you choose.

15. All BIG 3 HP Engines require Premium fuel of 91+ Octane. HD and HDE engines are recommended to be run with premium fuel but can be ordered built specifically to run on lower octane fuels. Big 3 HPE and RACE series engines require specific fuels depending on the build specification. HPE engines are available in 93 Octane trim by request.

BIG 3 ENGINE INSTALLER TIPS

PCV: BIG 3 Recommends running name brand PCV valves (AC Delco, Chevrolet Performance or Motocraft) from older high horsepower vehicles. Due to the camshafts used in our engines, 60’s muscle cars, or low powered 4 cylinder engines PCV valve will work best. Install the PCV valve in the port at the base of carburetor or manifold port, use PCV hose only, not fuel line. Be sure to have fresh air to the opposite valve cover, through a breather or through the port in the air cleaner. An incorrect PCV system can cause the engine to burn oil, run rough, have poor performance and cause blow by. Some engines may require a catch can assembly or crank case vacuum pump depending on engine specifications. Some HP, all HPE and all RACE series high performance motors require a catch can to dispose of additional oil due to crank case pressures. Vacuum pumps are required in some cases.

Cooling: We recommend running the OE Fan/Clutch assembly with the fan shroud and a Performance grade radiator. The OE Fan setup produces much more CFM than most aftermarket electric fans and will cool better. If you do decide to swap to an electric fan, look for the most CFM possible with a fan shroud to direct air flow. We often see overheating problems due to customers using low quality electric fans/no shrouds. Overheating is a cooling issue, not an engine issue.

Thermostat: BIG 3 recommends a 180-195 degree thermostat (with bypass holes drilled if you are not running the bypass hose) to properly maintain temperature. Do not run a 160 degree thermostat as this can often allow the thermostat to remain open causing the engine to run hotter and or overheat.

Carburetor: Adjust the mixture screws all the way in and then back out 1 turn. Adjust the idle speed screw to as low as it can be without stalling the engine, then adjust the mixture screws in/out equally until engine idles up the highest, readjust the idle speed down and repeat the process. When no more improvement is evident, reset the idle speed screw to the desired idle RPM (800-1000 rpm). Adjust the choke per carburetor instructions. Recommended fuel pressure is typically between 5-6 PSI for all BIG 3 engine combinations. In some cases you may need to run a fuel pressure regulator, as fuel pumps tend to put out more than 6 PSI and can create tuning issues. Failure to Properly Tune your fueling system can lead to lean/rich tuning conditions which can cause fuel wash and other fueling issues damaging the engine. Damage to your engine due to over or under fueling, cooling system or fuel system issues, or detonation and lugging are not covered under your warranty and you will be responsible for all costs associated with this damage.

Fuel Injected Vehicles: Vehicles with fuel injection need to have the complete fuel system (Fuel Pump, Injectors, Pressure, Filters, Etc) checked to ensure everything is in good working order prior to start up. Failure to do so can lead to lean/rich tuning conditions which can cause fuel wash and other fueling issues damaging the engine. Damage to your engine due to over or under fueling, cooling system or fuel system issues, or detonation and lugging are not covered under your warranty, and you will be responsible for all costs associated with this damage.

Notes:

BE SURE TO USE A SUITABLE DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR FOR THE TYPE OF CAMSHAFT PROVIDED WITH YOUR MOTOR.

Use Standard fuel pump pushrods in GM engines, we recommend Pioneer #FPR-1936. DO NOT USE BRASS.

Old/Contaminated fuel can cause the engine to run poorly and make it difficult to tune. It can also contain debris that can get into the carburetor causing the floats to stick getting lodged in the needle/seat or in efi engines it can ruin your injectors causing a lean condition that is not covered under warranty.. If your engine is going to sit without being run for long periods of time, this can cause the seals/gaskets in the carburetor to go bad and may need to be rebuilt. BE SURE TO USE FRESH FUEL WITH YOUR NEW MOTOR. DROPPING AND CLEANING THE TANK, FLUSHING THE LINES, REPLACING YOUR FUEL FILTER AND FUEL PUMP ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR MOST APPLICATIONS AND IS REQUIRED FOR ALL CLASSIC (ie. More than 15 years old) VEHICLES.

As required by the engine or gasket manufacturer, AT INSTALLATION, AT 500 MILES AND ALSO after 1000 miles of service, retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Readjust tappets when required. We suggest this be done again after 5000 miles. We know that this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. MODERN ENGINES WITH TORQUE TO YIELD BOLTS REQUIRE A “TORQUE CHECK” ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE. THESE TYPE OF BOLTS SHOULD BE CHECKED FOR REGISTERING THE STANDARD TORQUE VALUE AS PROVIDED BY BIG 3 BY REQUEST OR AS PROVIDED BY A CERTIFIED DEALERSHIP.